I am getting a new book in the mail soon. I have been looking forward to this book for quite some time. It’s called “Masters: Gemstones: Major Works by Leading Jewelers" by Lark. The title covers the content pretty well and while I am not doing a lot of stone setting at this time, I am anticipating a lot of inspiration from looking at these lovely pieces.
I mostly work in silver and I mostly work without stones. The biggest difference to me is that I am working in a different color palate. Without the colored stones or gold, I am much more focused on the reflective angles of my finish.
Not long ago, I was gifted a book called “Brilliance! Masterpieces from the American Jewelry Design Council” by Cindy Edelstein and Frank Stankus. This book is set up to display themed pieces by major artists. The themes include Cube, Wheel, Key, Puzzle and Sphere. The works are incredible.
Among my favorites are the Peekabo entry “A Peek”, the untitled Fold entry by Albert, and Pyramid entry “Winds of Time”. I wish I had the rights to post all of these pictures, but I will do my best to describe them.
“A Peek” by Pascal Lacroix looks like a blue flying saucer on three golden tripod legs. The edge of the saucer has tiny horns protruding and the top has three short antenna. The gold antenna are diamond topped and an interior mechanism allows the saucer to raise and lower the antenna. So, the piece actually plays peekaboo with the lucky observer. The delicate design makes me imagine other-worldly aliens, wondering about their giant observers.
The untitled Fold entry by Jean-Francois Albert is mesmerizing. In the center is a large, square, green stone. The stone is surrounded by pave diamonds and folded squares of gold. If you were to imagine two squares of gold, each about 3 or 4 times the size of the diamond, one set below and one above the stone, and then each folded around it like a stiff paper frame, you might see this design. I find myself poorly equipped to truly describe it in three dimensions. I will say that the light rolls along the gold in a dazzling way, which shows off the light and darkness that smooth gold can convey from the right angles. It is a piece with strong lines, brilliant contrast, and echoing corners.
The “Winds of Time” entry is also by Pascal Lacroix. First you must picture a small three dimensional pyramid, with a texture that does look like the sand in strong wind. Then, imagine that the pyramid has been twisted, in a style reminiscent of “The Memory of Time.” And now, you should know that the top of the pyramid can be opened on hinges, but only through a secret mechanism. I wish very much that I could try my luck against a secret lock created by a jeweler.
I have used this book for inspiration and to try out similar design ideas. For example, the Fold section also has a white-gold paper airplane, called “Flight” by Mark Schneider. The back edge has lines of pave diamonds along the wings. The metal really looks folded. I used this designed as inspiration for a hair piece. I began with learn to fold origami hearts. I folded hearts in many styles until I found a favorite. Then, I attempted a silver heart that was folded in appearance. I attached the silver heart and two of the paper ones to a hairpiece. The design had several flaws and I’m sorry to say that I did not take a picture. The project was, however, a great introduction to “folding metal.” I have since found more information on the art of folding and intend to repeat the project. I may, however, not use hearts this time.
